Arduino, Mice, and Why I Love the Internet

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is the microcontroller board I like to use for most projects that need electric control. It”s open-source, powerful enough for most applications, and programed in c/c . It”s also based on the Atmel AVR, which makes it easy to port your prototype to a dedicated circuit. The best part about this microcontroller is the community that supports it. You can find a solution to most problems and there”s a good chance there”s a library or at least some code examples to get you started.

Mice

We needed optical encoders for a project we were working on this weekend to determine the exact

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position and speed of a rotating arm. Enter Mice. Old computer mice are a great resource

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for scrounging robotics parts. In older ball mice you”ll find at least two optical encoders and two buttons, newer ball mice have even more. If you have an optical mouse, don”t worry, that sensor”s easy to interface too. My initial thought was to take the encoders off and connect

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mouse that decodes the sensors for you. That would greatly simplify the software for the project, but we still need a way to get data from the mouse IC? As it turns out, the PS/2 Protocol used by most mice was designed to talk directly to the microcontroller on the PC, which makes it trivial to interface directly with the Arduino, no extra components required.

The Internet (and why it”s awesome)

Now we have an idea of what we want to do, but there”s still some gaps in our knowledge. What

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is the pinout of the mouse, and how exactly are we going to get the Arduino to talk to the mouse and get usable data back? Here”s where the Internet comes in. A quick search lead me to a PS/2 library for the Arduino complete with and example program. At this point we have a library to talk to and receive data from the mouse, but we still needed to understand how the mouse talks to the microcontroller, back to the search bar. I quickly found a site describing how the protocol works. It only takes a few minutes of reading to get a good enough understanding of the protocol to figure out how the example program works, and consequently how to bend it to our will. Now it”s time to play with some hardware. After stripping some wires and a quick check with the multimeter

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It will still take a fair amount of effort to customize the program to get it to where I need it for our project, but because of the internet, hardest part of getting started, figuring out a new technology, is out of the way in just a few hours.

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Saleboat: The Amphibious Shopping Cart – Part 3

Posted on by Steven
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This is the third part in the Saleboat Series. You can read part 1 here, and part 2 here. We left off last time after converting a shopping cart into a vehicle

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that was stable and that we could control from inside. This was no small feat, but shopping carts are designed for land use. We were about to attempt to take the shopping car completely out of its element and make it capable of traveling on water. There were many problems to overcome before we could call our shopping cart seaworthy. Most notably, a shopping cart is, by design, full of holes. Not the best situation when you need to float. We also needed some type of propulsion. As you could infer from the title, we chose to sail. So we still need to add a mast, a rudder so we can control the shopping cart in water, and deal with the not-so-small task of making it float. The first thing we tackled was the sail. To build the mast we used a 10″ length of 2″ PVC pipe, with approximately 8″ sticking above the frame of the cart. It needs an extremely strong base to counter the torque caused by the wind pushing on the sail. The mast also needs to be removable for transportation. To achieve these goals we built a mast support from about a foot of 4″ diameter PVC. We glued two 2″ to 3″ PVC couplers on the bottom of the mast to interface with the holder on the cart. Mast Connector The mast holder is secured to the cart with rebar. We drilled two parallel holes through the cross section of pipe and slid two sections of rebar though the support. The rebar rests on the pipes that hold the basket together. To attach the mast support to the cart we used J-B Weld epoxy to cold weld the rebar to the basket supports and glued the mast support to the rebar with a generous amount of construction adhesive. Mast Support We made the sail out of a

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light fabric, I think it was a cotton bed sheet. The sail was cut out and the edges were folded over and sewn. A piece of 3/4″ PVC section acts as the boom an is sewn into the bottom of the sail. There are pieces of dowel sewn into the edge of the sail that connects to the mast. These pieces slide up a long slot we cut a down the side

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of the mast. We don”t have any pictures of the sail, but our design was generally a failure. If we have the chance to resurrect the project we probably go with some thing like this. Now we need to navigate. We got a 2″x2″ piece of 1/4″ plywood to build the rudder. We lopped a wedge off of the top to make it more hydrodynamic, or was it to make it look cooler? Anyway, to attach it to the cart we took a 3″ length of conduit and buy viagra online cut in half down its length about 2″. We then slid the board into the the pipe and used three bolts to clamp it in place. Rudder To attach the rudder to the cart we drilled a hole through the pipe on the rudder and the back cross support of the cart. We secured it with a bolt so that we could move the rudder back and forth. Rudder Connection To actuate the rudder we attached a control rope to the end of the pipe holding the rudder and ran the lines to the steering levers. We attached them along with the steering cables in a configuration that allowed rudder and wheels to be turned in at the same time so we could roll into a body of water without loosing control. Once all of the control systems were done and more importantly, we were done putting holes in the hull, we could tackle the task of making a shopping cart waterproof. We found a self adhesive clear plastic that was also very strong and ductile. To waterproof the mesh we wrapped the cart in a layer of clear plastic. We put a

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layer on both sides of the mesh to make sure no water could penetrate. We also had many smaller holes and cracks that needed to be filled. We used a combination of caulk and expanding foam to make the the cart as waterproof as possible. Plastic Wrap Even though we did our best to waterproof the shopping cart we had our doubts that it would hold its own in a body of water. So, we

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added a set of pontoons to add the buoyancy necessary to prevent our creation from ending up on the bottom of a lake. We built a frame out of a few 2x4s. The frame has two boards that go underneath the cart and are attached to the

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bottom rails with u-bolts. On either side of the cart we put supports running parallel to the cart to hold the pontoons. Pontoon Frame For pontoons, our original plan was to use several 5 gallon buckets to build the pontoons. However, we found procuring enough buckets to be more difficult than we originally thought. We could have bought them, but the home improvement stores wanted upwards of $5 per bucket and we needed at least 8. We ended up finding 15 gallon tubs and bought four at around $6 a piece. We glued the lids on so no water could get inside. We tried construction adhesive first, but that did not stick at all. We”re currently using insulation foam to seal the lids on, but we hope to find a better sealant if we revisit the project. We attached the pontoons to the frame using metal strapping and wood screws. A good amount of duct tape was also used to make sure they stayed in place. Pontoons To enable transportation one side of the pontoon frame is built as an independent section. That way the frame can be slid under the cart before being attached to the other pontoon. Frame Sections We also attempted to make the front of the pontoons more hydrodynamic by rounding off the front. This was done last minute by stacking progressively smaller pieces of foam. Although this seemed to help, a more permanent solution is necessary. Front of the pontoon With

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little more that a week left in the summer, we had accomplished our goal. What started of as an off the wall response to “what”s the craziest thing we can build this summer” was sitting in front of us. Now for the moment of truth. Does it float? That story deserves it”s own post. The Saleboat Next time, Launch day.

Rebuilding the Tesla Coil

Posted on by Vince

Back in the good old days of high school I needed a reason to build something crazy. Luckily, I had the Pennsylvania Junior Academy of Science to give me the need to build two of my cooler projects. My 10th grade project was to test lightning rods for conductivity. This, of course, gave me the perfect reason to build a Tesla Coil. When it was finished it could emit continuous sparks up to 8 inches long.Quel che è certo è che con tutti questi bonus in denaro che ti offriamo, le tue opportunità per mettere alla prova la fortuna con i nostri giochi sono infinite. It could not, however, survive short car rides, and so we”re left with this:

Today, my reason just happens to be just the right mixture of curiosity and boredom. Ultimately, I”d like to scrap this Tesla Coil to build a new and improved one, but first I need to figure out how they work. The first step to reconstruction of course, is to see what I had to work with.

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A keen observer will notice that the wires are strewn about with no system of organization known to man or ape, there”s only three legs (and only two connectors), and an extremely high voltage capacitor somehow epoxied itself to the frame. For our purposes today it will do. Luckily the spark gap timer is intact. It controls the rate at which the metal dome charges/discharges, thereby controlling the distance of the spark.

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delicately removing the capacitor from the frame (i.e. crowbar), I organized the wires and re-epoxied the capacitor and spark timer in place on the frame, set up the legs and mounted the top cover and the primary coil. Then I used a liquid welder to attach the dome to the top

After plugging it in and flipping the switch the spark gap exploded to life and the Tesla Coil was functional again, given at a much shorter spark distance.

It”s not as good as it was, but it works for what we need. I”m going to spend the weekend reverse-engineering it and will have a report of how it works soon.

Interesting Links – June 6, 2008

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of the dissection on Flicker. Society of robots has an excellent tutorial on how to get started in robotics. The tutorial takes you step-by-step through the process of designing a robot for under $50. The tutorial is great for any one looking to get started in robotics, but is still interesting to read even if you already have an idea

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of what you”re doing. While on the topic of robotics, at CAM our current microcontroller of choice is the Arduino open source platform. You”ll be seeing some projects from us using the Arduino in the near future. Until then, here”s how to Control Arduino with a universal remote. When working in the shop, whether taking something apart or putting it back together (with decidedly different behavior of course), you will inevitably suffer from your share of cuts and scrapes. This Instructable on a Band-Aid modification to improve flexibility and keep them on! is incredibly simple, just cut down the center of the adhesive strips, but it will save you a lot of frustration when trying to bandage those annoying cuts on your finger tips. Finaly in the just for fun category, Hack a Day has a how to on DIY Ballistic Gel, with the obligatory video of testing

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it with increasing firepower, and MAKE featured a cool Stop motion graphic equalizer. Have a cool project you worked on this week, or do you have one planed for the weekend? Share in the comments or post some pictures or video on the Center for the Advancement of Mischief Facebook page.

Interesting Links – May 30, 2008

Posted on by Steven

We”ll start off this week with jameshallison casinocom/wp-admin/post-new.php”);” href=”http://www.dinosaursandrobots.com/”>Dinosoaurs and Robots guest blogger Todd Lappin”s post about an ICBM control panel found at a

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surplus store. It”s a freaking missile control panel! Need I say more? Also from D&R is Mister Jalopy”s Post about the Case XX Wire Jack Pocket Knife. It”s an excellent read about how the quality of products has changed for the worst over the years. Lucky for us, the market forces that create a need for disposable products don”t effect the DIY community. We will continue to design quality products and take pride in our work. Speaking of great design, Electronic Peasant has a Color Organ Built from Discrete Components. It”s a free form circuit consisting of 49 LEDs, transistors, and resistors laid out in spiral arms. The device is a great example of aesthetic circuit design. [via Pyro Electro] I”m an electronics guy, so I”m naturally drawn to electronics projects. I”ve been keeping an eye out for cool projects for our mechanically inclined readers and found this awesome Clock from Bike Parts, there”s a video of the clock in action, and a time lapse of the assembly. Tools are just as important as the stuff your working on. A recent post on Tool Monger featured a mini tap and die set that would be great for small projects and robotics work. It could also

come in handy if you strip a screw while dissecting that intriguing gadget that you probably should have left alone. Finally, the next time your in the mood for some cookies, I suggest Space Invader Cookies. Or, if you don”t feel like going though the trouble of laying out all of the pixels, you could always make a Cookie Cutter. Do you have any projects you”re working on this weekend, or something to share? Post it in the Comments

Shoe Brakes

Posted on by Vince

So it should first be noted that if you are building anything with guys who refer to their group as “The Center for the Advancement of Mischief” you shouldn”t leave personal belongings behind with them. Our dear friend Drew learned this lesson after leaving his work shoes behind during the Saleboat build. Lucky for us, that was the same day we realized that car tire rubber wasn”t sufficient for our brake pads, and that we needed a softer rubber. Goal: Make brake pads from a sneaker Tools you”ll need:

Reciprocating saw and shoes At first glance, ripping apart a shoe would seem easy. In theory you should just need to take a knife down all the seams to separate the fabric from the rubber. But, honestly, where”s the fun in that? Secure the shoe into the vice and start ripping up the fabric. After the majority of the shoe”s body is gone use the box cutter to clean up the leftover bits of plastic, leather, etc.oklahomajubilee.org Dissected shoe You should only have the rubber of the shoe left. Find a section of the shoe that has a constant thickness over it”s length and cut away the excess. Measure out two blocks for the brakes and extract them from the rubber. Break Pads Now reassemble the shoes and leave them for your unsuspecting friend to discover the next day. Oh, and get back to work on the Saleboat. Back together

Saleboat: The Amphibious Shopping Cart – Pt. 2

Posted on by Vince

This is the second part of our Saleboat series – you can read Part 1 here. We finished last post with a semi-complete downhill cart. After days of riding it aimlessly we remembered to get back to work. We still had gaping holes in the sides of the cart. We used a plastic lattice normally found in florescent lighting fixtures to fill it in. It”s attached using zip ties and various adhesives and gives the cart added stability as well as bringing back its shopping cart appearance. Adding lattice to the sides The sides start bowing towards the end of the cart, so we glued aluminum u-channel running the length of the cart on top and bottom and zip-tied them in place. We used caulk to attach the lattice to the u-channel to keep it in place. Adding c-channel to the sides This left a large hole in the bottom of the basket. To fix this we added a floor on top of the pipes that attach the front and rear portions of the basket. The floor was cut out in two sections of Oriented Strand Board (OSB). We also made a back support at this time so you don’t have to lean on the metal grate. OSB is far the best material to use

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on something that is going to end up in water so we ended up covering it in some basement sealing paint we had laying around. The Floor We now have a seven foot long shopping cart, you”d think we”d be happy, but a good project is never done. It”s time to make the cart a vehicle, instead of an uncontrollable death-trap. Our first task was to add brakes. Our original plan, in an attempt to reduce complexity and avoid screwing with the existing hardware, was to use brakes on the back wheels to steer the cart using differential steering. As it turns out, that doesn’t work. Because the shopping cart is so long we would need to apply a tremendous amount of force to the wheel in order to swing the front around. We ended up modifying our original steering mechanism into dedicated brakes. To stop each wheel we built a brake pad arm out of a gate hinge and a door stop. The brakes were engineered ad hoc in an aisle at Lowe”s (garnering only a few odd stares as we test fit various bits of hardware on a shopping cart). One side of the hinge is bolted to the bottom frame of the cart and a door stop is bolted to the other. A return spring is connected between the ends of the hinge to keep it off the wheel when the brakes are not applied. We added a rubber brake pad, generously “donated” by our dear friend Drew, to the door stop when the stop itself failed to cause enough friction to stop the shopping cart (the cable ties are just to hold it until the epoxy dries.) The brake To activate the brakes we used rope to pull the brake pads against the wheels and some conduit to direct the lines. We tried many combinations of levers and pulleys to get the force necessary to activate the brakes. After seven tries and six total failures we came up with a decent system using a fairly simple pulley system to stop the cart fairly quickly. Not perfect, but with only a couple days until we left for school, it had to do. The ropes attached to two foot levers that engaged the brakes when pushed. Control lines Steering on the other hand, once we sucked it up and did it right, was one of the few things that worked great. Our steering scheme was to turn the front wheels. To control the motion of each wheel we added metal bars to the metal part of the caster using pop-rivets. In order to control the wheels from inside the cart we added a tie rod between the two front wheels. The scrap pieces we used had holes pre-drilled, so we put some threaded rod through and secured it with a combination of nuts and washers. It was important to leave enough space between the washers on both sides of the control bars so that the wheels have enough freedom of movement when turning the wheels to different angles. Steering Mechanism To control the steering we made two levers out a section of conduit about 18″ long. We drilled a hole about 6″ from the end of the pipe, and used a bolt as an axle. We made axle supports with 4″ sections of pre-drilled angle iron. We the clamped the rope we were using for control systems to the tie rod and routed it to the levers using eye bolts. We then attached the control rope to the levers using hose clamps. After making the the rope taunt and centering the wheels, we could steer the cart by pushing one lever forward while pulling the other back. This method of steering works very well and becomes intuitive after a little practice. Steering lever Now we have a stable shopping cart that we can ride down hills with out having someone run along side to make sure we don’t hit anything, and of course the inevitable drop in productivity that comes along with it. The breaks don’t work fantastically, so we still needed a spotter, but it’s a great feeling to ride down a hill under your own control. Next time we’ll show you how we continue toward our goal of making the shopping cart amphibious.

Match Shooter V3- Trebuchet

Posted on by Vince

Saying something is finished is admitting that you can”t do it any better. We here at CAM live by that code. With that in mind, let”s review what we”ve learned so far:

  1. Motors, as well as all other electronics, suck.
  2. Despite popular belief, setting the match throwing device on fire is a bad thing.
  3. Level shots are lame.

So our ideal launcher this time around will be purely mechanical and able to launch the match at angles

As the title for this article suggests, the perfect device to meet these needs is a Trebuchet. Now trebuchets have a special place in my heart. The first big project I ever built, with Steve”s help, was a seven foot tall (axle height) trebuchet. It wasn”t incredibly efficient, but it was huge and threw soda cans over a hundred feet into trees, so we loved it. It has long since rotted out and had to be disassembled, but now feels like the right time to build a new one. Materials Needed:

Our tension treb will be small, only 7 inches tall, but that should be more than enough for its purpose. First step is to build the two supports. Each support is made out of three pieces of wood (legs), two joined by a butt joint and one running across the unconnected ends of the other two. One leg in the butt joint will be longer than the other. This is the front of the trebuchet. Drill a screw into the top of the connecting leg on each support. Cut another length of wood about 4-5 inches longer than the back diagonal leg. This is going to be the arm. com/wp-content/uploads/2008/05/100_03982

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Cut a side panel off the match box. Attach the spring to the back connector of the trebuchet and glue the sectioned box onto it so that the strike plate is perpendicular to the arm. Fold the other two sides into the body. Glue a cut rubber band from each of the back

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their respective box side

Now you”ve officially built a match shooting trebuchet. To fire the trebuchet connect some rubber bands from the screws on the connecting legs up and around the screw in the arm. Load a match and lower the arm to the bottom of the match box. The friction between the match and the strike plate should hold the arm in place. Then all you do is tap the box and it should take off. You can tweak the release point my adding rings of paper to the match hole or by making it wider. Remember that a trebuchet can fire anywhere along the arc of the arm including backwards or straight up.

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Our farthest lit match was shot a horizontal distance of over 8 feet shot from the ground, but we gladly challenge you to do better. I know I said that projects can never truly be done, but this works so well and is so amusing that we might take a break off new match shooters, at least for a bit. Until then, have fun and try not to burn anything down.

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